Grape | Amaretto | Almond | Black cherry | Balsamic glaze

Dried raisin | Black cherry | Apricot | Light baking spices | Charred oak | Thick mouthfeel

Gentle rye spice | Grape | Fig | Plum | Pecan | A touch of soy sauce | Rye grain

Ampersand is a new line of spirits from Foley Family Wines & Spirits. Spearheaded by Master Distiller Chip Tate, Ampersand’s initial three bottle release sees the company present two blends and a finished whiskey. Bottled at Minden Mill Distillery in Nevada, Malus is a blend of 8+ year old rye and 9+ year old grain neutral spirit (GNS) that was aged entirely in Cognac casks.

It seems that Tate had every intention of starting with a GNS for this product and used rye as a flavoring accent based on how the end product tastes (and not how it's constructed). A grain neutral spirit (GNS) is a high proof, clear, and virtually flavorless spirit distilled from fermented grains (such as corn, wheat, or rye) to extreme purity, typically over 190 proof.

Grain neutral spirit (GNS) is often (still) seen as a dirty word to many bourbon drinkers. In the early days of the bourbon boom, some producers (often of budget, bottom shelf whiskeys) blended it in with their bourbon. Many saw this as diluting the purity of the bourbon itself and lowering its overall quality. The fact is, GNS is virtually flavorless, and many other types of spirits use GNS as the base of their product before enhancing it in other ways. Though Ampersand Vinea only includes 25% Cognac finished GNS, it was likely extremely potent, and the 75% rye was needed to tame it. As such, the GNS Cognac finish is the star of this whiskey.

Right from the start, the Cognac influence is noticed. The aroma is grape-forward, with amaretto, almond, black cherry, and balsamic glaze (think balsamic vinegar without the bitterness) rounding it out. The palate layers in dried raisins, black cherry against apricot, baking spices, and charred oak that features a delightful thick viscosity mouthfeel. This carries over to the finish, featuring a gentle rye spice pop, with more Cognac notes of grape, fig, and plum, along with a touch of pecan and soy sauce near its end.

Ampersand Vinea is successful because it finds its own niche. The GNS is light and airy, yet it also features a thick(ish) mouthfeel as it goes down. It displays a very crisp and clean taste that easily communicates its Cognac influence in a delightful way. The rye component does inherently stick out in a stark way, but adds a bit of spice to contrast the fruit and sweetness of the rest of the sip. With the number of Cognac finished whiskeys on the market, leave it to Tate to turn the category on its head and bring to market something refreshing and new. We no longer have to be scared of seeing “grain neutral spirit” on an American whiskey label, as Ampersand Vinea proves its fertile ground for creative blending.