Stewed strawberry | Stewed raspberry | Blackberry | Rich charred oak | Chocolate crinkle cookie | Cola | Caramel

Dark brown sugar | Stewed cherry | Cola | Vanilla extract | Charred oak | Cinnamon spice | Burnt caramel

Black pepper | Molasses | Barrel char | Aged leather | Sweet oak turning to dry oak | Slight smoke & earthiness | Slightly bitter

Established in 1879, Barton 1792 Distillery is the oldest continuously operating distillery in Bardstown, Kentucky, and is named for the year Kentucky became a state. Up until the release of 1792 XV, the oldest officially released bourbon by the company was 1792 Aged Twelve Years. 1792 XV is both the oldest in the 1792 brand portfolio and the first offered at cask strength, not proofed down to barrel entry proof as 1792 Full Proof is.

According to Barton 1792’s master distiller, Ross Cornelissen, “This release wasn’t part of a planned experiment in barrel-proof whiskey. We noticed that several of our oldest barrels were developing extraordinary characteristics, with flavors and nuances that stood out on their own. That discovery inspired us to do something special, which ultimately led to the creation of XV.” Though three additional aging years don’t seem like a lot, there’s a very wide gulf in both quality and flavor between 1792 Aged Twelve Years and 1792 XV.

The bourbon’s aroma is rich and wonderful all-around, thanks to stewed strawberry, stewed raspberry, and blackberry scents. Nicely contrasting this is a rich charred oak scent that carries through into chocolate crinkle cookie, cola, and caramel. The palate is quite flavorful and may catch you off guard. Dark brown sugar slowly transitions to stewed cherry, cola, and vanilla extract. Charred oak returns along with cinnamon spice and burnt caramel. Finally, the bourbon’s finish is spearheaded by a black pepper pop that can be a bit punchy thanks to the bourbon’s proof. Molasses, (more) barrel char, and aged leather follow. Sweet oak turns dry before ending with manageable amounts of smoke and earthiness.

There are plenty of 1792 Full Proof releases – both official and private selections – that feature big flavor. But due to their age and/or 125 proof threshold, they are held back. 1792 XV is a 1792 bourbon with its safeguards removed. Charred oak dominates with its rich, sometimes smoky depths, but somehow the whiskey isn’t over-oaked. It features an enjoyable range of flavors, and its only real drawback is its slightly dry, bitter oak at its end. With any high aged, high-oaked bourbon, personal oak preference plays a more prominent role here than usual.

1792 XV is available exclusively via Global Travel Retail at select airports, which is bound to disappoint many looking to get their hands on a bottle. Cornelissen's statement about coming across barrels that featured “extraordinary characteristics” rings true, but given the size and production output of Barton 1792 Distillery, more batches will likely come in the future as the company continues to age bourbon longer. Up until now - much like what Jack Daniel's experienced - without a release featuring older whiskey, the company simply doesn’t have high aged whiskeys sitting in barrels waiting to go. With more and more brands increasing age statements, like the recent Heaven Hill’s Elijah Craig 15 Year, more is likely on the way.

Overall, 1792 XV isn’t revolutionary, but it highlights the brand’s spice note, and its charred oak content is staggeringly intense. It shows Barton has what it takes to compete with brands that have been offering high age, high proof bourbon far longer. Though Barton has sold its bourbon to numerous non-distiller producers for years, it’s nice to finally see the company shine a light on itself for a change.